border
Home      Register      Show Groups      Photos      Videos     

SailingX > Yacht Club > Dock talk

Notices

Dock talk General sailing chat

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-08-2015
guar's Avatar
guar guar is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 776
Default Dash mods

I'm probably guilty of a few thread drifts, most recently in the Local Anomolies thread so figured I'd take my drifting over to it's own thread.

Continuing on the engine thing. J33 mentioned a vertical track which I've looked into and looks like the simplest and best solution IF I keep the OB transom mounted. J33, if you could put up photos of Black Flys setup it would be appreciated.

Considering my objective with the Dash is more cruising than racing, I still think an IB diesel may be the best solution in the long term.

In the meantime, I've got a few years before the boat goes back in the water so lots of time to try and come up with a solution that works and doesn't end up with an ugly OB hanging off the transom.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-08-2015
Schnick's Avatar
Schnick Schnick is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,009
Default

Karma, prior to the open transom mod, also used the vertical tracks on teh transom. I don't think we ever tilted the outboard but I could be wrong. The tracks went right up to the top of the transom edge, and the up/down was via a 6:1 purchase hanging from the top rail of the pushpit. Did work pretty good but you still had to lean over the back to start the motor (no electric start in that case). I think the gear and throttle were hidden in one of the coaming cubbyholes.

But I agree an inboard is the best solution on a boat this size that is not 100% racer.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-08-2015
NextExit's Avatar
NextExit NextExit is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 74
Default

Have you considered an IB electric? See http://www.electricyacht.com/
__________________
Moistened Bint, Viper 640 - CAN 191
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-08-2015
Hamelyn's Avatar
Hamelyn Hamelyn is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 293
Send a message via MSN to Hamelyn
Default

This is exactly the setup that Black Fly has Guar. I'll get the pics up when I receive. Blackfly has an electric start if I recall, newer controls mounted in hte usual cockpit by your foot location.

R

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnick View Post
Karma, prior to the open transom mod, also used the vertical tracks on teh transom. I don't think we ever tilted the outboard but I could be wrong. The tracks went right up to the top of the transom edge, and the up/down was via a 6:1 purchase hanging from the top rail of the pushpit. Did work pretty good but you still had to lean over the back to start the motor (no electric start in that case). I think the gear and throttle were hidden in one of the coaming cubbyholes.

But I agree an inboard is the best solution on a boat this size that is not 100% racer.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-08-2015
guar's Avatar
guar guar is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 776
Default

I've looked at electric drives. May be okay for getting to and from an EB race, but that's about it. Not useful for cruising or bucking a headwind unless you go with a diesel-electric or gas-electric hybrid - but then what's the point.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-08-2015
Stephen C.'s Avatar
Stephen C. Stephen C. is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 105
Default

Cal 20 motor well photos

http://sailingvoyage.com/photos/var/...96266711DA.jpg

http://boatgypsy.blogspot.ca/2013/02/test-sail.html
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 10-06-2015
guar's Avatar
guar guar is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 776
Default

This is a case of unintended consequences. Moving the mast and chain plates aft means building a new bulkhead about 4 ft aft of the existing one which is rotted at the bottom anyways. Then I realized that the location of the new bulkhead puts it pretty much right in the middle of the forward port light openings, which is not structurally desirable.

Solution - fill in forward port light openings with fibreglass and balsa core.

I've got the starboard side laid up and the outside filled with a light layer of micro balloons. The rebates were also filled with a micro balloon mixture, so it is really a micro balloon core in the rebates.

Here's something you don't see every day. From the interior photo, looking at the translucent rectangle it looks like Spencer "lost" a piece of balsa in the layup. Not sure why I didn't notice this before - maybe because the gel coat that was on the outside before was covering it up. Inner skin has not been applied yet

The port side has been a bit of a disaster so far. The balsa was temporarily held in place with a coroplast sheet. After applying a sealing coat of resin on the outside I came back the next day to find the balsa had buckled outward - not a little, but like 45 degrees. Some stresses must have arose from the curing resin, but it didn't happen to the other side. I'm thinking on my next attempt I will make sure to get the gap filling and micro balloon mixtures applied the same day as the sealing coat.

In the port side photo I've taped the inner layer of 1708 in place to trial fit. Outer layers will be 2 lams of 1200. All three lams will be laid up in one go.

Photo kind of gives a bit of an idea of what it will look like when finished. Still debating on whether to fill in the full length of the port lights, or just leave it at the forward half. Full length will give a bit of a 1D35 look to it. Either way it should be an improvement or at least an update on the 1980's style full length mono windows.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20151001_163206 (2).jpg (149.1 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg 20151006_130702.jpg (135.0 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg 20151006_140712.jpg (94.7 KB, 53 views)
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 10-06-2015
Schnick's Avatar
Schnick Schnick is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,009
Default

Ever think you should have started by installing one of those "easy" buttons?

I like the new look but you'll probably want ports up front too?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 10-06-2015
canting keel canting keel is online now
Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 319
Default

man.....
1708 is a sponge for resin. nice if your looking to add weight. a lot of it.
Fibertec has an amazing 17 oz triaxe cloth that I used on structural repairs give the biaxe on a joint and the uni in one. epoxy is so much better I truat your using it. there is a newer company http://www.resinresearch.net/ who make a great high mod epoxy i used the 2020 on the repair of the structural areas on Ocanada and using heaters and infrared lamps the stuff was rock hard.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 10-06-2015
guar's Avatar
guar guar is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 776
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnick View Post
Ever think you should have started by installing one of those "easy" buttons?

I like the new look but you'll probably want ports up front too?
I hear ya

The reason I'm filling in the forward ones is so the relocated bulkhead (which will be right in the middle of the forward port light. has a structural surface to bond to rather than an 8" hollow between the top and bottom of the the window.

Is it necessary? I'm not sure but from a structural point of view I'd rather the bulkhead be attached to a continuous surface.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Forum Jump

Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Template-Modifications by TMS
A vBSkinworks Design

right